The Dark Side of the Bottle – A Guide to Wine’s Rogue Gallery

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Spain, before phylloxera, was a wild, tangled mess of vines with over 700 grape varieties stretching from the Basque hills to the sun-baked plains of Andalusia. It was a country of forgotten valleys and ancient terraces, of vines planted in haphazard mosaics, each plot a time capsule of local viticultural history. Winemakers worked with what the land gave them - Maturana, Trepat, Moristel, Rufete, etc. - grapes that spoke in the dialect of their terroir. Then came the great catastrophe.